by Christine Vartanian Datian
FRESNO — This family recipe is featured in Reedley chef, author and restaurateur Jon Koobation’s Cooking With Jon, the celebrated cookbook he published in 2017. For decades he owned Jon’s Bear Club in Reedley that is often showcased in his cookbook. Under Jon’s professional direction, Jon’s Bear Club became a cherished part of the local community that welcomed generations of Central Valley residents.
Founded in 1935 as a small bar for local farmers and farm laborers, the eatery became a beloved home for countless family meals and celebrations throughout the generations, according to a California Restaurant Association (CRA) news release. In 2017, Jon received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the CRA Fresno Chapter “Best of the Valley” Restaurant Awards.
“We had infants and young children brought into the restaurant by their parents, who grew up and came back and worked for us,” he said. “After having been there 40 plus years, you see generations come and go.”
Jon eventually sold the restaurant in 2013, and released Cooking with Jon, a legacy to his rich culinary background. It features many of his signature recipes along with old family photos and warm memories and anecdotes. It is a walk down memory lane about Jon’s life growing up in the Central Valley — interspersed among the recipes are many stories. Stories of how he trained to become a chef, of his deep love for family, cars and racing, and what it was like going from just being a chef to owning his own popular restaurant, and his lifetime love of really good food.
“Cooking has been my passion throughout my life. It has filled my entire life with joy,” shares Jon in his cookbook. “At every family gathering, my father, Edward Koobation, said, ‘Well, here we are.’”
The choices of Jon’s authentic recipes and beautiful color photography will provide daily inspiration for many memorable meals throughout the year. Recipes include: Grandma Bazarian’s Shish Kebab, Tomato Vermicelli Soup, Herb-Seared Lamb Tenderloins with Eggplant Caviar and Basil Oil, Chicken George, Lebanese Judra (Lentils and Rice), JBC Crab Cakes, Braised Lamb Shanks with Bulgur Pilaf (made with Swanson Chicken Broth), Cabbage Dolma with Beef and Lamb, Meyer Lemon Homemade Ice Cream, Heirloom Tomato Jam, and Cracked Wheat and Kale Salad.
“Cheese beoreg is another mainstay of Armenian culture and tradition,” said Jon. “It is served as part of the appetizer course or a Middle Eastern mezze with platters of pickled vegetables (tourshee), cured olives, string cheese, nuts, grape leaves (yalanchi sarma), and cured meat (basterma),” he adds. Take the time to make these beoreg, and you’ll have them on hand in your freezer for your next special occasion. Once you learn the technique, you can fold-in almost anything you want. These were a staple in my Armenian family sharing many meals with my parents and grandparents…and in our home today for family and friends. Easy to make and assemble, they’re the perfect appetizer for buffets, dinners, or to serve at holiday dinners.”
Ingredients:
1 pound Monterey Jack Cheese, shredded
1 cup cottage cheese
2 medium eggs, beaten
1 bunch flat leaf parsley (leaves only), minced
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Athens® Phyllo Dough, fully thawed
1/2 pound melted butter
Jon Koobation with his wife Kitty was honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2017 “Best of the Valley” Restaurant Awards.
Preparation:
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Combine ingredients in a medium bowl, cover and set aside.
Lay out a sheet of phyllo dough on a floured work surface, and brush with butter, top with another sheet and brush with butter, and repeat with a third sheet.
Cut the stack of sheets into thirds, lengthwise.
Spoon a walnut-size of cheese mixture (about 2 tablespoons) on the bottom strip closest to you. Fold over to form a triangle. Fold again to form another triangle. Continue to the end of the phyllo sheet. Brush the end of the final triangle with butter. Rewarm the butter as needed to keep it melted so it’s easy to brush onto phyllo. Repeat with the remaining phyllo sheets and cheese filling. (Keep in mind that minor tears or cracks won’t be noticeable once the beoreg is folded and assembled, especially if they end up on the inside, so don’t worry too much as you work with it.)
Arrange the sealed beoregs on parchment-lined baking sheets and brush the tops with egg wash. Bake for 10-12 minutes or until golden brown. Do not burn. Serve immediately as an appetizer or a special complement to your salad course.
Note: The cheese and parsley mixture should be cold when making this recipe.
Options: Jon has used a combination of sauteed mushrooms, green onions, and thyme added to the cheese and parsley mixture. Cooked and drained spinach with Feta cheese is another option. Store leftovers at room temperature. For more information on working with phyllo dough, see: https://www.seriouseats.com/borek-5185229
Serves 12.
